The ports of West Africa are not the most beautiful parts of these countries and the port of Lome, Togo, is no exception. It is a busy port, with a constant exchange of container ships, oil tankers and bulk carriers of various descriptions. The city skyline dominates the view northwards from the ship; on leaving the port one enters immediately the hustle and bustle of the traffic filled streets, dodging potholes and motorcyclists, enveloped by noise and exhaust fumes, surrounded by hundreds of people, some active and industrious, many others with little to occupy their time, just standing around watching the changing scene. As I gaze out from Promenade Deck in the other direction, west along the seafront, the black hulk of a rusting wreck blots the beach scenery. Every morning lorries of varying vintages line the road to the beach, waiting for a load of sand, pumping their acrid exhaust into the early air as we jog past down to the long breakwater of the artificial harbour where the ship is berthed. But the sand is clean and golden, the surf breaks onto the beach, and palm trees line the boulevarde which runs along the seafront from here to the Ghana border. ..